Tern 14 update for November

Just a few more steps left to finish the Tern14!

I think my list of things to do, in order, are as follows:

1.1 glass 2nd side of bulkhead panels

1.2 epoxy the hip braces in the cockpit

1.3 cutout the stern hatch

2.1 tweak the inside shear seam tape and epoxy

2.2 precoat the hatch strap fixtures

3.1 epoxy the bulkheads in

3.2 epoxy the strap fixtures to the hatches

4.1 apply the WR-LPU polyurethane finish

5.1 drill slots for webbing / deck rigging

5.2 fill the slots with thickened epoxy

6.1 drill new slots in epoxied areas

Hmmm, not much to comment on here.
When cutting out the hatches I tried a couple of methods including hand holding jigsaw blades, hacksaw blades, etc. I think the sabersaw/jigsaw cutting is the way to go. Using gentle pressure and even speed you can control the cut for a decent curve. I had problems making the saws follow a curve when holding them by the hand.
I did all the preparation for using magnetic hatches instead of the pygmy closures. In the end I decided to go with the pygmy system. The two main reasons are because the magnetic system would take many more hours to complete, and I felt it would be necessary to test gasket materials first because the lid/lip gap is critical for magnets to work.
I’m in the process of applying LPU right now. That is a story in itself which I will update later.

If anyone has some questions on magnetic hatches for Pygmy kits, let me know. I have some sketches and drawings I can share.

3 comments on “Tern 14 update for November

  1. I am intending to install magnets on my Arctic Tern. I think I have a detail that will allow me to have magnet to magnet contact in a magnet holder, put a bead of thickened epoxy on the hatch lip, lower the hatch in place and imbed the hull magnet holder (a 5/8 wide by 4mm piece of plywood that follows the lip contour) onto the lip for perfect alignment, then cut the 3/4 gasket in half so that I insert a 3/8 wide piece between the magnet holder and the hull hatch cut-out. The magnet holder will extend 1/4″ past the inside edge of the lip, but I don’t think that will be problem. IF it seems at all weak, I will put a fillet of epoxy, could even tape it with epoxy cloth. I plan on saturating the edges of the holder with epoxy first thing, as the holder will only have 1/16 inch of clearance on either side of the magnets, and teh epoxy should minimize break outs when I drill the holes for the magnets. If that fails, I will use solid stock mahogany for the holder. I intend to mount the 1/8 thick magnets in the deck lid with very careful drilling on a press to avoid drill-throughs. Installing a thin strip on the hatch would be safer, but what the heck, I ended up with decorative inlays due to a veneer sand through……I will take the risk. I examined a friends Redfish that he had just installed magnets on. At 6.5 lbs pull each, 2 3/4 spacing seemed right to me. He used 14/hatch. I know this is more than is sometimes recommended, but I liked the effort required to seperate them. I also intend to make Redfish style loops instead of installing eyelets for deck rigging Between that and the magnets, crawling the rear deck in event of a capsize should be a bit more comfortable!

  2. I am intending to install magnets on my Arctic Tern. I think I have a detail that will allow me to have magnet to magnet contact in a magnet holder, put a bead of thickened epoxy on the hatch lip, lower the hatch in place and imbed the hull magnet holder (a 5/8 wide by 4mm piece of plywood that follows the lip contour) onto the lip for perfect alignment, then cut the 3/4 gasket in half so that I insert a 3/8 wide piece between the magnet holder and the hull hatch cut-out. The magnet holder will extend 1/4″ past the inside edge of the lip, but I don’t think that will be problem. IF it seems at all weak, I will put a fillet of epoxy, could even tape it with epoxy cloth. I plan on saturating the edges of the holder with epoxy first thing, as the holder will only have 1/16 inch of clearance on either side of the magnets, and teh epoxy should minimize break outs when I drill the holes for the magnets. If that fails, I will use solid stock mahogany for the holder. I intend to mount the 1/8 thick magnets in the deck lid with very careful drilling on a press to avoid drill-throughs. Installing a thin strip on the hatch would be safer, but what the heck, I ended up with decorative inlays due to a veneer sand through……I will take the risk. I examined a friends Redfish that he had just installed magnets on. At 6.5 lbs pull each, 2 3/4 spacing seemed right to me. He used 14/hatch. I know this is more than is sometimes recommended, but I liked the effort required to seperate them. I also intend to make Redfish style loops instead of installing eyelets for deck rigging Between that and the magnets, crawling the rear deck in event of a capsize should be a bit more comfortable!

  3. I am intending to install magnets on my Arctic Tern. I think I have a detail that will allow me to have magnet to magnet contact in a magnet holder, put a bead of thickened epoxy on the hatch lip, lower the hatch in place and imbed the hull magnet holder (a 5/8 wide by 4mm piece of plywood that follows the lip contour) onto the lip for perfect alignment, then cut the 3/4 gasket in half so that I insert a 3/8 wide piece between the magnet holder and the hull hatch cut-out. The magnet holder will extend 1/4″ past the inside edge of the lip, but I don’t think that will be problem. IF it seems at all weak, I will put a fillet of epoxy, could even tape it with epoxy cloth. I plan on saturating the edges of the holder with epoxy first thing, as the holder will only have 1/16 inch of clearance on either side of the magnets, and teh epoxy should minimize break outs when I drill the holes for the magnets. If that fails, I will use solid stock mahogany for the holder. I intend to mount the 1/8 thick magnets in the deck lid with very careful drilling on a press to avoid drill-throughs. Installing a thin strip on the hatch would be safer, but what the heck, I ended up with decorative inlays due to a veneer sand through……I will take the risk. I examined a friends Redfish that he had just installed magnets on. At 6.5 lbs pull each, 2 3/4 spacing seemed right to me. He used 14/hatch. I know this is more than is sometimes recommended, but I liked the effort required to seperate them. I also intend to make Redfish style loops instead of installing eyelets for deck rigging Between that and the magnets, crawling the rear deck in event of a capsize should be a bit more comfortable!

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