After installing the inwales I turned my attention to the decks. As usual, I pretty much followed the words of wisdom found in Canoecraft. However, there are a few interesting bits to mention. First, I managed to find a nice piece of sapele at a local lumber store. There was about 1 board.ft sitting in a bin of scrap wood that they use for stacking lumber. I still had to pay for the wood, but at least I only needed to buy a small piece. It cost me $10.
I resorted to a few more sluggo special jigs for the deck glue-up and shaping:
I had some problems screwing the decks into the inwales. First I predrilled with a 1/8″ bit for #8 screws. I got a couple of screws in, but then I broke one. Next I predrilled 1/8″ into the deck, and then 5/32″ through the inwale. I still broke a screw. Finally I settled on this pattern: start with a 3/8″ forstner bit for countersink, drill 5/32″ through the inwale and deck, then finally drill 3/16″ through the inwale.
I managed to shape the decks ok and the fit was pretty good for me. I had some Elmers wood filler that did an excellent job of filling gaps between the cherry and sapele:
And used thickened epoxy for gaps between the decks and the inwales. Once it’s sanded I think it will look quite okay.
I glued the inwales in a couple of weeks ago. I haven’t updated the blog because I’ve been going full-tilt on the canoe every chance I get, and I’ve been having some family fun camping in BC!
A couple of notes about the inwales:
1. I used my belt sander as a substitute for planing the final shape of the gunwale planks before installing. It was fast and gave a nice flat surface
2. One inwale I forgot to roughen up and sand the epoxy surface to which it was glued. Hopefully it won’t fail…
3. As usual, my craftsmanship in finishing details was not perfect, shaping the inwales as they meet in the stems left some gaps. Overall it wasn’t too bad. At least I didn’t cut an inwale too short and have to start over again.
And now some pictures…
Another famous sluggo jigging setup. I borrowed a drill press to bore some holes/slots into the gunwales. I added 4 slots near midship instead of scuppering. Drill presses are really handy.
Masked, sanded and ready for glue.
One of my joints at the stem.
One inwale in, one glued up.
I managed to get the first seat joined and glued last night. I opted to try and do mortise and tenon joints. I was a bit reluctant to do this because I’m not much of a craftsman but the other options were much more appetizing. I thought a simple lap joint might not be as nice and I didn’t want monkey around with holes and dowels. The dowels would be a good way to go if I had a drill press (mmmm, drill press). Anyways, I sucked it up, bought a 1/4″ chisel, put my dado blade on the table saw and went for it. I sharpened the chisel with my Norton water stones and I must say that I got what I paid for when I bought the $10 chisel from Rona. The blade couldn’t hold a good edge very well at all. No worries though, it still works.
First I practiced and did a test mortise on some scrap wood. Using the width of the chisel as the width of the mortise, I then set the height on the dado blade to make a matching tenon. It only took a few minutes to cut the four tenons. It took around 2 hours to cut all four mortises and epoxy it all together. My work wasn’t perfect but I hope that after sanding the joints will look good. One change for the next seat is that I should put a layer of epoxy on the tenon before coating it with thickened epoxy for gluing (white microfibres as the thickener).
Having never used mortise and tenons before, I’m not sure how “right” my joints were. The tenons slid in easily but I don’t think there was any slop, especially after the seat frame is assembled.
I finally finished scarfing the gunwales. My second attempt went very well, but one joint got a piece of dirt or debris in it. Using weights and having the planks side by side, it was very difficult to see if the joint was good. The one scarf therefore didn’t have a tight fit and the joint was barely glued. I pulled it apart, sanded the surfaces flat, and glued it again.
This past week’s goal was to scarf the gunwales. I cut the scarfs using a sled based on the one shown here.
Here is a pic of my sled, it is essentially the same as the one in the above link but not as “nice.”
I first tried to epoxy the scarfed pieces together using epoxy thickened with some fine sawdust from my table saw. I placed a brick over the 4 joints and called it a night. The next morning most of the joints and shifted a bit. I decided that 1 brick for all 4 boards at once was not the way to go, and I also decided against using thickened epoxy. Since the scarfs were cut quite accurate, the joints fit together nice and tight and I don’t need any “thickeners” in the joint. I cut through the epoxied joints with a hand saw, trimmed new scarfs with the table saw, and laid everything out again. This time I carefully placed 1 brick per joint. I’m hoping it all works out, I should know by later tonight.
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Here are some pictures from my trials and tribulations in fiberglassing the inside of the hull.
rough layout of fiberglass
cloth layout in stem – I later trimmed back the overlapped portion
sanded overlap seam before 2nd coat of epoxy
after 2nd coat of epoxy. The weave is mostly filled and I’m leaving it like this. I’ve noticed in other people’s builds that their inside finish is immaculate. I guess they maybe fully fill the weave and sand smooth? I want a slightly rough finish, and some of my cloth is wrinkly – not air bubble so strength is not an issue, but simply that in order to smooth flat, either epoxy will be wasted to fill in the troughs, or the fiberglass will have to be sanded (and removed) and patched. I have a sketch below to show what I mean. I’ve actually had the sketched situation happen on almost all of my epoxy/fiberglass endeavours. I guess I need some work in perfecting the glass layout and squeegee action.