Decks Finished

After installing the inwales I turned my attention to the decks. As usual, I pretty much followed the words of wisdom found in Canoecraft. However, there are a few interesting bits to mention. First, I managed to find a nice piece of sapele at a local lumber store. There was about 1 board.ft sitting in a bin of scrap wood that they use for stacking lumber. I still had to pay for the wood, but at least I only needed to buy a small piece. It cost me $10.


I resorted to a few more sluggo special jigs for the deck glue-up and shaping:
shaping jigdeck glue-upcurve tracing

I had some problems screwing the decks into the inwales. First I predrilled with a 1/8″ bit for #8 screws. I got a couple of screws in, but then I broke one. Next I predrilled 1/8″ into the deck, and then 5/32″ through the inwale. I still broke a screw. Finally I settled on this pattern: start with a 3/8″ forstner bit for countersink, drill 5/32″ through the inwale and deck, then finally drill 3/16″ through the inwale.

I managed to shape the decks ok and the fit was pretty good for me. I had some Elmers wood filler that did an excellent job of filling gaps between the cherry and sapele:
wood filler
And used thickened epoxy for gaps between the decks and the inwales. Once it’s sanded I think it will look quite okay.
deck in place

Inwales Are In

I glued the inwales in a couple of weeks ago. I haven’t updated the blog because I’ve been going full-tilt on the canoe every chance I get, and I’ve been having some family fun camping in BC!

A couple of notes about the inwales:
1. I used my belt sander as a substitute for planing the final shape of the gunwale planks before installing. It was fast and gave a nice flat surface
2. One inwale I forgot to roughen up and sand the epoxy surface to which it was glued. Hopefully it won’t fail…
3. As usual, my craftsmanship in finishing details was not perfect, shaping the inwales as they meet in the stems left some gaps. Overall it wasn’t too bad. At least I didn’t cut an inwale too short and have to start over again.

And now some pictures…

cutting a slot
Another famous sluggo jigging setup. I borrowed a drill press to bore some holes/slots into the gunwales. I added 4 slots near midship instead of scuppering. Drill presses are really handy.

ready for glue
Masked, sanded and ready for glue.

One of my joints at the stem.

One in, one to go.
One inwale in, one glued up.

Some Updated Canoe Photos

The gunwales are a work in progress while I wait to get a hold of a drill press so I can add some decent drain holes/slots. In the meantime, I’ve finished making the seat frames and need to drill some holes and paint the wood with urethane prior to caning.

mortise and tenon


First Seat Frame Is Glued

I managed to get the first seat joined and glued last night. I opted to try and do mortise and tenon joints. I was a bit reluctant to do this because I’m not much of a craftsman but the other options were much more appetizing. I thought a simple lap joint might not be as nice and I didn’t want monkey around with holes and dowels. The dowels would be a good way to go if I had a drill press (mmmm, drill press). Anyways, I sucked it up, bought a 1/4″ chisel, put my dado blade on the table saw and went for it. I sharpened the chisel with my Norton water stones and I must say that I got what I paid for when I bought the $10 chisel from Rona. The blade couldn’t hold a good edge very well at all. No worries though, it still works.

First I practiced and did a test mortise on some scrap wood. Using the width of the chisel as the width of the mortise, I then set the height on the dado blade to make a matching tenon. It only took a few minutes to cut the four tenons. It took around 2 hours to cut all four mortises and epoxy it all together. My work wasn’t perfect but I hope that after sanding the joints will look good. One change for the next seat is that I should put a layer of epoxy on the tenon before coating it with thickened epoxy for gluing (white microfibres as the thickener).

Having never used mortise and tenons before, I’m not sure how “right” my joints were. The tenons slid in easily but I don’t think there was any slop, especially after the seat frame is assembled.

Inside Hull Fiberglass Pictures

Here are some pictures from my trials and tribulations in fiberglassing the inside of the hull.

rough layout of fiberglass

cloth layout in stem – I later trimmed back the overlapped portion

sanded overlap seam before 2nd coat of epoxy

after 2nd coat of epoxy. The weave is mostly filled and I’m leaving it like this. I’ve noticed in other people’s builds that their inside finish is immaculate. I guess they maybe fully fill the weave and sand smooth? I want a slightly rough finish, and some of my cloth is wrinkly – not air bubble so strength is not an issue, but simply that in order to smooth flat, either epoxy will be wasted to fill in the troughs, or the fiberglass will have to be sanded (and removed) and patched. I have a sketch below to show what I mean. I’ve actually had the sketched situation happen on almost all of my epoxy/fiberglass endeavours. I guess I need some work in perfecting the glass layout and squeegee action.

Finished Scraping The Hull

I finished scraping the inside of the hull this past weekend. I enjoyed this part of the build, as it didn’t involve any epoxy or electric power tools (ie ROS). Using the curved cabinet scraper I was able to not only remove glue from the inside surface, but also fair out any uneven strips. I’ll only have to do a quick sand on the inside before it’s ready for fiberglassing.

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